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British Cheese. The story of British Cheesemaking Legend has it that 4000 years ago
an Arabian nomad set off on an arduous journey across the desert. For sustenance in this
hostile climate, he took with him some milk - storing it in a saddlebag made from an
animal's stomach. At the end of his journey, tired and thirsty, he opened his saddlebag to
devour its contents. To his surprise, what had been milk had separated into a liquid
(whey) and a solid (curd). The desert heat, the presence of an enzyme in the animal's
stomach saddlebag (rennet), and the shaking motion of the horse's canter combined to
curdle the milk and create a very basic cheese. Britain started producing cheese
thousands of years ago. However, it was in Roman times that the cheese-making process was
originally honed and the techniques developed. In the Middle Ages, the gauntlet was passed
to the monasteries that flourished following the Norman invasion. It is to these
innovative monks that we are indebted for so many of the now classic types of cheese that
are produced in Britain. The recipe for Wensleydale, for example, can be traced back to
the twelfth century when it was made in Yorkshire by the monks at Jervaulx Abbey. Each British cheese has its own
fascinating backgrounds. A good example is Cheshire. This is Britain's oldest cheese,
dating back to the eleventh century. It can claim a mention in the Doomsday Book and boast
to have been a firm favourite at the court of Elizabeth I. Rightfully known as the 'King of
English cheeses', Stilton also has an interesting heritage. It originated near Melton
Mowbray at the beginning of the eighteenth century - getting its name from the
Cambridgeshire village where it was served in the coaching inns on the Great North Road.
In 1996, Stilton was honoured with Protected Designation of Origin status, restricting
production to the three counties of Leicestershire, Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire. Of course, the world of cheese
would not be quite the same without its crown prince, Cheddar. Many countries have
endeavoured to imitate Cheddar, but all fall short of the kind of quality that Britain's
history and experience can bestow. Cheddar dates back to the fifteenth century when it was
stored in the Cheddar Gorge caves of Somerset. Britain continues to produce the finest
Cheddars - making the cheese a global bestseller and an ambassador for British cheese. The British cheese industry boomed
in the seventeenth century and was fairly stable until the Industrial Revolution of the
nineteenth century began to threaten its traditional production. The explosion of the
railways meant that it was much easier to transport milk greater distances, making it more
profitable for dairymen to sell liquid milk than make cheese. The ensuing decline was not
helped by the interruption of two world wars and the consequent rationing. Indeed, the
Ministry of Food stipulated that, during World War Two, only one type of cheese could be
manufactured - the unappealingly named National Cheese. By the time rationing ended,
British cheese-making was reeling with only a few varieties still being made. It took
until the 1970s for the industry to pick up, but since then it has undergone something of
a Renaissance. The discovery and revival of old recipes and the development of new types
of cheese has seen the British cheese industry flourish and diversify recently in a way
not seen since the seventeenth century. There are now over 400 different
varieties of British cheese produced, ranging from the more established, traditional types
(such as Cheshire, Lancashire, Wensleydale, and Cheddar) through to the more recent,
experimental cheeses (witness Cheddar with ale and mustard, White Stilton with cranberries
or apricots, or Crème Café - a cheese incorporating the taste of freshly ground
coffee!). Although 90% of cheese production
now takes place in modern creameries, the fundamental principles of the cheese-making
process remain the same as the day the nomad finished his journey. Categorising Cheese Hard Cheese The most popular type of cheese, with the world-famous Cheddar amongst its ranks, Hard cheeses are perhaps the most well known variety. Hard, dense and with a low moisture content, they are ripened over a period of months depending on the strength desired. They also keep very well. In addition to the five varieties of Cheddar (mild, medium, mature, extra mature, and vintage), other types include Double Gloucester, Leicester and Derby. Semi-Hard Cheese These cheeses are either unpressed or lightly pressed and can be eaten young, when they have a wonderfully light flavour and texture, or allowed to ripen and produce a stronger, fuller taste e.g. Lancashire, Cheshire, White Stilton, Wensleydale and Caerphilly. Soft Ripened or Bloomy Rind Cheeses Neither cooked nor pressed, these cheeses have a semi-soft consistency and have been surface ripened (the cheese is sprayed with a mould - penicillium candidum - which ripens from the outside in). When reaching their full ripeness, the creamy inside of the cheese temptingly oozes out from within the rind when cut e.g. British Brie and Camembert. Blue Cheese The most famous Blue cheese is the classic Blue Stilton, also known as the 'King of English Cheeses'. These cheeses are veined with intricate blue marbling created by the introduction of a harmless blue mould - penicillium roqueforti - into the cheese. They enjoy a strong and distinctive flavour and are an integral part of any cheeseboard. Varieties include Blue Stilton, Blue Wensleydale, and Shropshire Blue. Fresh Cheeses Usually unsalted, these cheeses are uncooked and do not undergo a maturing process. They enjoy a mild and light flavour with a deliciously moist texture e.g. cream cheese, cottage cheese, fromage frais and Mozzarella. Blended Cheeses Many cheeses have their flavours enhanced by the addition of herbs, spices or fruit to the ingredients. This makes for a wonderfully unique type of cheese. Look out for Cheddar with Ale and Mustard, White Stilton with cranberries or apricots, Double Gloucester with chives and onion, or Cornish Tarragon.
Preparing a cheeseboard is one of the best ways of enjoying cheesy sensations. For the ultimate cheeseboard, select a cheese from each category listed above and a couple of different types of Cheddar. Serve garnished with natural ingredients - these traditionally include grapes, apples, tomatoes, parsley, celery or pickles, but don't be afraid to unleash your imagination! Have a number of knives to hand and always use separate knives to cut blue cheese and soft ripened cheese. Remember, to enjoy the true flavour of cheese, always serve at room temperature. ( back ) |
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